Segeln in Norwegen, vor allem in den Ryfylke-Fjorden. Navegando a vela en Noruega, sobre todo en los fiordos de Ryfylke. Voyages à la voile en Norvège, principalement dans les fjords de Ryfylke. Seiling i Norge, mest i Ryfylke-fjordene.

Sunday 16 January 2011

The Art of Philosophical Sailing

Sailing books, On self-steering, Erling Tambs (No.), Peter Tangvald (No.)

Colin Archer pilot cutter - entering Nedstrandsfjorden.

Most sailors don’t see themselves as philosophers although maybe they should. At least, in the world’s most famous sea novel, Moby Dick (1851), the author Herman Melville claims water and reflection to be inseparable. And of course, after hours and hours at the helm, the helmsman easily loses himself – or herself – in thoughts not necessarily related to the main task; keeping a steady course. What kind of thoughts, the other crewmembers normally never get to know, that is; if the helmsman is not a windbag. Or maybe the helmsman doesn’t reflect upon anything at all? Maybe the steering of the boat, the gazing at the horizon, trimming the sails from time to time, makes it possible to set one's mind at rest, letting go all quotidian worries. But I suppose this is some sort of reflection too, although of a more Zen Buddhist kind.

Nowadays, unfortunately, many cruisers have their own blog (like myself!). Almost all are writers and their own publisher. This would have worked out just fine, if they (we?) just hadn’t felt obliged to fill up the whole wide world web to the brim with an endless stream of privat family trifling or idiosyncratic technical knick-knacks concerning the beloved boat. The public sphere of pleasure sailing and cruising seems to have become – more and more – a collection of rather embarrassing family albums: “My beautiful wife Ramona, our five cute children, my sweet grandma and our precious little dog (to the left), all posing, ready for our adventurous around-the-world-voyage – etc. etc.”. Luckily you don’t have to read more if grandma doesn’t happen to be your grandma too. Surely other and more interesting writers and sailors still exist on the web as well as in the bookshelves. Though my own reading, unfortunately, is not wide in this field, I suppose many are not only excellent – but a kind of practical, humble philosophers too. Several of the Norwegian old-timers would fit into this category, certainly circumnavigators like Erling Tambs with his book The Cruise of the Teddy (1933) or Peter (Per) Tangvald with both his first book, Sea Gipsy (1966) and his autobiography published after his shipwreck and death, At Any Cost: Love, Life & Death at Sea (1991). Both were readers and many books were read while they crossed the wide oceans. Tambs made this intellectual activity possible by balancing the sails of his old Colin Archer doubleender. He then lashed the tiller, letting the boat “Teddy” steer herself. Tangvald used a simple windwane, the same type used by Bernard Moitessier.

For both these adventurers, sailing and seamanship were not only a precious craft, but also a rebellion against the complicated, modern society. They were ordinary but at the same time extraordinary and courageous men, zigzaging the globe without engines in their boats and only with a minimum of navigational aids. Their tempting of fate was influence by romantic thoughts. Freedom, happiness and love could only be found at sea. Their longings for a (lost) tropic paradise among the South Sea island were mix though, not only with vitalism and heroism – at least in the case of Tambs – but with male selfishness. This led them both towards tragedy. While crossing the Atlantic Ocean, Tambs lost one young crewmember and he was blamed for it. Tambs has written about the accident in his book Hard seilas (1939). During the years, Tangvald lost two of his wives at sea. His young daughter drowned together with her father, while his son survived. One easily sympathises with their firmness, their utopian longings and their maturing capacity for conjugal love and family life aboard. In many other ways these two sailors don’t come forward as uplifting examples, but their philosophical sailing and tragic fate are still worth reflecting on, either at sea or while couch-sailing back home during dark, wintry days.

Norwegiand editions, Flyt forlag:

Friday 14 January 2011

Tøgevågen, Strand

Natural harbour, Sea chart


59.05,714N 05.54,810 E. Tøgevågen is a small recreation area, situated one nautical mile southeast of the popular Rossøy sound. It isn’t a spectacular place, but is suitable if you decide to stop for some hours or even for the night. A quarry lies just by, but it probably won’t bother you. In the bay you can make fast to a small jetty or alongside the rocks on the eastern shore. A small cove in the mouth of the bay is also nice and possibly even less expost to northwesterly winds (see pictures).

Norwegian/Norsk: Tøgevågen er et lite friområde en nautisk mil sørøst av det populære Rossøysundet. Det er ikke en prangende plass akkuret, men ok om du vil ha en stopp eller eventuelt overnatte. Det ligger et svært steinbrudd like ved, men du ligger godt skjermet fra dette. Inne i bukta kan du gjøre fast til en liten brygge, eller kanskje bedre - du kan legge deg langsmed fjellet på østsida. En liten vik like i munningen av bukta og også fin, og er kanskje enda mindre utsatt for nordvestlig vind (bildet over).



Wednesday 12 January 2011

Skånevik

Visitor berths, Sea chart, Skånevik.info, Visit Sunnhordland

Preparen - a nice islet and swimming spot just on the fringe of town.

59°44,054’N 5° 55,949’E. Skånevik is called the pearl of Sunnhordland. The town lies stretched out in a bay, along the southern shore of Skånevikfjorden. The town is partly sheltered by the island Skånøy where a huge amount of seabirds enjoy their freedom and adds a maritim atmosphere to the whole place. The village is small and charming, but has a rather good selection of shops, a hotel, a guest house, a well-equipped guest marina and a motor museum. In Skånevik you can experience both culture, art and landscape, and not least be familiar with the friendly locals, thousand souls all in all. Skånevik is now best known for the annual blues festival held in July. Otherwise, the town is a good starting point for hiking, with several trails available. Many tourists rent a summer house in Skånevik, and return year after year. On your way towards or from Skånevik, you may also visit Romsa and Taraldsøya.

Norwegiand/Norsk: Skånevik er blitt kalt perla i Sunnhordland. Byen ligger utstrakt langs en bukt på sørsida av Skåneviksfjorden. Bebyggelsen er delvis skjermet av Skånøy der enorme mengder sjøfugl nyter sin vernede frihet og gir plassen en maritim atmosføre uten å ta betaling for det. Skånevik er liten og sjarmerende, men med et nokså bra utvalg av butikker, et hotell og et pensjonat, en veldrevet gjestehavn og et motormuseum, for å nevne det jeg kommer på. I Skånevik kan du oppleve både kultur, kunst og flott natur, og ikke minst kan du bli kjent med de innfødte som er av vennligsinnet slag, omlag tusen alt i alt. Skånevik er kanskje best kjent for den årlige bluesfestivalen i juli. Ellers er byen bra startpunkt for ymse turprosjekt, med mange ulike stier å følge. Mange turister leier sommer hus i Skånevik, og kommer tilbake år etter år. På vei fra eller til Skånevik vil det være en god ide å gli innom Romsa-øyne og/eller Taraldsøya.

Blues festival in Skånevik. Enjoyable, but not the best days for peace and rest.

Saturday 8 January 2011

Lammavågen, Sveio

Natural harbour, Sea chart, The Outdoor Department


59° 39.155'N 5°23.893'E. To the west of Førdespollen on the Sveio coast, Lammavågen offers a secluded and almost magic anchorage. In the seachart, the narrow entrance leading to the bay looks a little spooky, but don’t worry. Just be aware of the two spots to the starboard in your chart, they are rocks, not fly shit. Otherwise the depth is two meter or more if you follow the midline. The depth in the middle of the bay is 15 meter. At the northern shore, you’ll find a small jetty and a table for public use, even with firewood prepared, if you are lucky. It’s too shallow near the jetty though, for sailboats to go alongside. You’ll have to let go your anchor from the stern. If you can manage without the jetty, I’ll recommend you to make fast at the little islet to the west instead. Thanks to The Outdoor Department, you’ll find a table and a brand new suspension bridge leading to an outside lavatory. Lammavågen is a peaceful place. From the surrounding woodland, you’ll hear brooks flowing from Storavatnet near by. The open Bømlafjorden seems to be far away, though it is just a stone’s throw away.

The Sveio coast has a lot of nice small inlets and islands with safe anchorage. In Buavågen, 59° 36.131'N 05°18.800'E, five nautical miles southwest of Lammavågen, you’ll even find a harbour with pontoons. Ask for vacant berths.

Norwegian/Norsk:
Vest av Førdepollen i Sveio, ligger Lammavågen som en avsondret og nesten magisk ankringsplass. På kartet ser innseilingen litt vågal ut, men ta det med ro. Bare vær oppmerkom på at de to flekkene på kartet ikke er flueskitt, men grunner til styrbord. Ellers er dybden to meter eller mer om du holder deg omlag midt i løpet. Inne i pollen er det 15 meter dypt. Nord finner du en liten brygge og et bord, til og med ved var her, då jeg besøkte plassen. Her er for grunt til å ligge langsmed, så du får la ankeret gå akter. Om du klarer deg uten brygga, anbefaler jeg at du binder fast til det vesle skjæret på vestsida. Her kan du takke Friluftsrådet for både bord og en flott hengebru opp til toalettet om du er trengende. Lammavågen er fredelig. Fra den omkringliggende skogen hører du sus fra en bekker fra Storavatnet like ved. Den åpne Bømlafjorden virker langt borte, selv om den knapt er en kabellengde unna.

Sveiokysten har ellers mange fine bukter og øyer der du kan ligge trygt. I Buavågen, fem nautiske sørvest av Lammavågen, skal det til og med være en havn med utliggere. Spør for ledige båser.