Bømlo / Brandasund

Visitor berths:Brandasund, Skeret,
Skjeret-info., Bømlo-inf, Visit Sunnhordland, Outdoor Councel, Sea chart
            

Ringholmen lighthouse, Bømlo east.

59.53,50''N 05.05,65'' E. Our pilot’s hint at someone called “Nillo” (Nillo på Skjeret) fills the air with expectations as the sailboat rounds the point of Goddo, and turns to the northeast. We now run smoothly before the wind, leaving the open sea behind and soon glimps a bridge far ahead. From here Brandasund extends to the north. This sound has been a center of trade for more than 300 years, serving both Hanseatic traders and the fishing boats along the coast, with a boom during the great herring fisheries during the 18th and 19th century. The sound also had a cannery, now converted into a guesthouse – Fabrikkloftet – on the west side, on the island Gisøya. Today leisure boats and tourists are the most common visitors in the sound.

Brandasund

I go alongside the quay at the eastern shore, eager to find out more about this mysterious Nillo and her famous shop. But Nillo, it turns out, is not in her shop anymore. She has not been there for a while, but we meet her son, though, the friendly Bjarne Waage, now running the “new” shop just opposite of the old one. The new shop still sticks to the habit of selling all kind of goods, and therefore maintains some of the formers original air. I buy some batteries, some outdated date stamped foodstuffs and å chilly beer for our dear pilot. Then we enter the old shop. It’s like stepping into a time machine. Everything seems to be exactly the way it was when Pernille Waage (Nillo) served her customers, apart from more modern layers of dust. Nillo and her husband Anton arrived in Brandasund in 1922 and bought the shop. Nillo worked in the shop at all times, and was known by everyone. In 1983 she attained the Norwegian Kings decoration for meritorious service. Nillo died in 1992, 93 years old.

The "new" shop, Brandasund.

The old shop.

Brandasund clearly is a nice place to stay for a while, but unfortunately, our pilot is a restless soul. His beer is finished and he is soon ready to cast off. After all – he isn’t on a summer holiday, like the ordinary crew. I suggest that we can sail to the south, making our way through a maze of islands, but our pilot prefer a course more to the north-east, making free sailing possible through sound after sound, until rounding Torsdagsøy, south-east of Siglo. Aye, aye, Sir! It’s an excellent plan, and we soon slide peacefully through this deserted archipelago, miles after miles, with only occasional help from the outboard. We then turn to the south in Nyleia and aim for Rubbestadneset on Bømlos eastern shore. This is where our friend is going to leave us.

The evening sets in when we are alone again. Our original plan wasn’t to circumnavigate the whole island of Bømlo in one single day, far from it, but no harm done. We turn to the north again, first seeking shelter in a deep cove behind Austneset, not far from Rubbestadneset. Here we make a fire and eat our supper in all simplicity while the northern sky is purpled by a sunset that doesn’t seem to have an end. Tomorrow our plan is to sail towards Fitjar and new summer adventures.

Agahamn/Austneset.

Agahamn/Austneset.

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Bømlo / Melingsvågen

Natural harbour/(Hiskjo), Sea chart, Meling, Outdoor Counsel, Sunnhordland info., Bømlo info.

Passing Bømlo's western shore.

59.47,079 N 05.07,043 E. Melingsvågen. Seduced by a gentle southeastern breeze, old Maritornes casts off and runs merrily out of Espevær harbour trough the northern sound, then turning north under mainsail and genoa. The light rain from the morning has faded away, and although the sky is far from clear, we see forward to a relaxing leg, passing to third of Bømlo’s western shore, from Espevær up to Melingsvåg where we have friends, they might possibly offer us a bed with more comfort than our ordinary sailor berths. Meanwhile, we quietly contemplate this rough and deserted coastline. From our position, we see almost no sign of human life, not a sailboat, not a cottage, only a single boat with German fishing tourist is to be seen. Seagulls and shags, though, seem to feel themselves at home. What Bømlo has to show in terms of outdoor life, is going on in small rural communities, at the head of the many narrow fjords and inlets that split up it’s rough shoreline. For those who prefer solitude in an outport, the  recreation area Hiskjo is recommended.

On our port side, towards the open sea, the water is scattered with islets, rocks and reefs that would have caused me fear and trembling in a gale. But, today we can run through the open lane nearer the Bømlo mainland, without worrying. Unfortunately, our jolly ride doesn’t last for long. The bank of clouds far out in the sea grows darker, the rain returns and the wind drops. Soon we are lying still, rolling heavily due to an old, almost invisible swell. It's time to wake up the outboard, this indispensable assistant in our modern time. It breaks the silence, but al the same. Just now in the pouring rain, I don’t value much the Danish sailing doctor and writer Tage Voss, celebrating in his book Glæden ved at Sejle, the joy of sailing without an engine.

Melingsvågen, seen from the shore. Follow the leading lines/lights when entering the bay. Visitor can make fast to the fish-processing quay, to the left in the picture (the south shore).

The head of Melingsvågen. In front, a traditional boat from Hardanger; an Oselvar.

At last the instruments tell me it is time to turn to the east, and we enter the web of sounds and islands, following the marks that will finally lead us to the head of Melingsvågen – Meling bay. This is a beautiful, rustic, but not much of a touristy place, far from it, and I really don’t know if the bay conceals any great attractions at all, other than being typical and quiet, with its many old and scruffy boathouses and more or less homemade piers and jetties. I guess a visitor will be best served by going alongside the fish-processing quay, currently not running. Otherwise – in this part of Norway at least – you might also lie alongside suitable privat jettys as long as you ask permission and show consideration. (Times are changing, though. We hear, even on the west coast, the sad new story of quarrelsome holders and not holders of the increasing valuable waterline. They are disputing on old more or less forgotten or obscure rights of use regarding waterline, jetties or boathouses. Our Meling friend, luckily, place his own jetty at our free disposal.)

Meling is green with undulating farmland and small groves. The place is sparsely populated, but it is not fart to Bremnes – or Svortland, as the locals insists – the biggest town on Bømlo with a wide range of shops, even a liquor store (Vinmonopolet) in spite of a traditionally strong temperance movement. If you need to bunker, you might take a bus or better – I am sure – hope that some local chap or chick will offer you a lift. Then you may also experience the way people here have evolved a special art for conversation, expressing most of the secrets of human live while uttering almost nothing. This kind of chatter is called “å bolsa”, and is a phenomenon seen only in “conversation” among old friends, mostly men. When meeting strangers the locals might gab a lot or nothing at all, witch in both cases probably should be taken as an honest expression of hospitality and friendliness.

The skipper and his pilot.

We stay in Melingsvågen for one day. The next day our host says he would like to sign in as a pilot and escort us safely through the rest of the Bømlo archipelago. To us, inexperienced and unfamiliar with these waters, nothing is more convenient than this free, local guide, and soon we cast off and stand out from the bay with confidence and no need for satellite navigation. Our original plan was to twist and turn trough the many narrow sounds and cannels south west of the island Goddo, but our pilot says heading west of Goddo towards the open sea, is better and easier, at least if our intension is to set sail. No sooner said then done. The main sail is set and we take bearing on the outermost island, Måksteinen (The seagull rock), beating against the northwestern wind with some support from the outboard. It is a weather-beaten seascape where the heath gradually dwindles into nothing as the boat approaches the big blue. Not a cabin is to be seen. We are to far off, and have left the sheltered waters. Near Måksteinen, we turn north. The jib is set and at last we manage to sail large in a light wind. It's a rather cold day. We use our warmest sailing suits, but our pilot friend is still more then happy with his t-shirt and his fag. He seems to be adapted to this coast and its climate. Let's head for Brandasund and Nillo på skjeret, he says as we pass (on a safe distance) some magnificent cliffs polished trough the millenniums by waves and breakers. I have something to show you there, he mutters without explaining. Aye, aye, Sir!

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Bømlo / Espevær

Visitor berths, natural harbour, sea chart, Espevær info, Island hopping, Sunnhordland info., Outdoor Counsel

Sletta south of Espevær, Ryvarden lighthouse (No).

The lighthouse is now a cultural centre with art gallery and cafe, and offers overnight accommodation, see Sveio tourist information.

North of Haugesund – you’ll immediately meet an open stretch – “Sletta”. This water is infamous among ferry passengers for it's heavy seas. As late as 1999 a tragic accident happened when the catamaran ferry “Sleipner” went on the reef  "Bloksen" and went down. 16 passengers drowned. As we pass by this reef, the accident gives us food for reflection, but happily, today “Sletta” causes no trouble. It is a summer day. We are beating to windward in a gentle breeze from the northwest. Bømlo and Espevær are still scarcely made out in the horizon. While running north, we proudly outsail a bigger and far more modern boat. While approaching the archipelago of Espevær, this other boat chooses the main lead, we instead, steer towards the light at Marholmen a bit more to the south, fascinated by the complicated web of cannels that seems to wait for us behind the nearest island.

Espevær, a small world of islands and chanels.

If you are lucky, you have a vessel that doesn’t always ask you to choose the safest and most obvious fairway, that doesn’t quiver when you ask your second mate to run close in with the land, towards something perhaps unpredictable. Maritones doesn’t bother; she is small but capable although both her skipper and her second mate still are novices in sailing and often are worried too. This time, luckily, our adventure is exiting, but no big deal. The entrance reminds me of a poem, The Dream We Carry, by the famous Hardanger poet Olav. H. Hauge. Robert Bly and Robert Hedin have translated the text, and you deserve a complete quote:

This is the dream we carry through the world

that something fantastic will happen

that it has to happen

that time will open by itself

that doors shall open by themselves

that the heart will find itself open

that mountain springs will jump up

that the dream will open by itself

that we one early morning

will slip into a harbor

that we have never known.

We enter the bay in full sail, observing with delight this harbour that we have never known. I cross two third of the water surface, and then turn sharply into the wind while my wife douse the sails. After hours in the open sea, the calm, protected pool really feels like another world, and more of it is ahead. The outboard is started, and Maritornes runs slowly trough the fascinating channel dividing Saugøy in the south from the village island. The small, well kept houses are evidence of prosperity, but today some of them are summerhouses only. In former days things were different and far busier when up to 20.000 fishermen came here in the herring season. The island's three bakeries, I read later, couldn’t cope with the situation, and thousand of bread had to be imported from the mainland every day. People could walk with dry shoes from island to island, climbing from boat to boat, and the fishermen lived and slept in every obtainable chamber, causing – I imagine – terrible sanitary conditions, but also excitement, joy and a lot of hurly-burly. The Norwegian writers Jonas Lie and Alexander L. Kielland are among those who have portrayed this kind of event. Lie depicts in an excellent way the teeming crowds in a Norwegian outport, especially in his sea novel “Gaa Paa!” (1882). Unfortunately the text is not translated. A similar happening, but in an urban setting, is described by Kielland, using Stavanger in the 1840s as his model. In his novel Skipper Worse (1882) a great hullabaloo starts with the news, saying the herring is on the coast

(from page 45).

Prosperity, but unfortunately there is another side of the shield, hidden beneath the surface of the sea. It is the almost untold story of profit maximisation in a global seafood capitalism, a story of pollution, fish diseases and the uncertain fate of the wild salmon and sea trout, and the whole ecological system in the Norwegian fjords.

In former days up to 20.000 fishermen came her in the herring season.

In Espevær it would be easy to find a nice natural harbour among the many small islands. This day, though, we are in a more sociable mood and head for the guest harbour where we make fast alongside a big cabin cruiser. No problem. The "cabin family" has been her for several days already, and intend to stay for many days more. So it is with the motor boating people. More and more they congregate at the guest piers at least if it has electricity, shower and a shop. It is cosy and it is cheaper than running around with a 400-horese-engine, slurping diesel like a summer holiday monster. After all, there is also a boat loan to be paid off, and too much moving around leads to financial breakdown. Furthermore, explains this non-sailing family as they try to gather their sweet, yelling kids for dinner and children's TV: “we enjoy ourselves here in Espevær. No place on earth is better”.

59°35,19’N 05°09,53’E Espevær's visitor berths.

On the port side of us lays a completely different type of boat – it represents both another time and another culture – and another generation. The world is immediately different when there is no father and mother around in a all too expensive craft; only a grandmother and a grandfather on their annual cruise with their grandchildren.

We try to adopt some of their attitude. At least our own ambition is not at all to explore the hole of Espevær, but simply to relax for a day or two, enjoying the seascape and the characteristic ambience of this archipelago, forming the southern point of the much bigger Island, Bømlo, where our next stopover is meant to be.

Something is special about islands, particularly islands such as this, sort of left out in the big blue, and simultaneously closed on itself with it's many islands and reefs. It must be this environment - and the island feeling of life – that makes the islanders slightly different from others. They may be more self-absorbed, but towards those who take the trouble visiting their little empire, they are pure friendliness. Simply staying in this mood is enough. We are content to wander around the island's narrow roads and trails, more or less without any plan. Suddenly we come to the lobster park (No.), the largest in Norway.

Unfortunately, it is late, and the park is closed, but it doesn't matter. We look trough the window, it is free of charge, and besides, we can read the history of the lobster fisheries and the farm on a poster. We then decide to try the islands peculiar self-service cable ferry, connecting two of the islands. But totally bewildered as we are, we can't find it and ends up strolling home to the guest pier, tempted by the prospect of enjoying a bottle of Chilean wine in the light of our gas light, and later – maybe other pleasures as well in the dark corner of our “forecastle”. Not until the day after when gliding out trough the northern sound, we see the modest ferry and regret everything - but now the ticket is thrown.

In villages of the Espevær kind, the grocery is an obvious centre – if it still holds on. Therefore, if you have done all your shopping before departing a city harbour, shame on you. Next time you arrive the island, the local grocery may have throw in the sponge. The grocery is – besides – a nice place to chat with human beings, both natives and “explorers” – that is others than your own crew. The local pub is another obvious option, and according to the tourist information there really should be one somewhere on the island - at least in the weekends (but today it is not). All in all the Espevær community doesn’t seems to go all out for tourism. The guest marina is nice and the island has some rental properties and some attractions, but no heavy promotion seems to be needed. The islanders seem to be content enough, and don’t ruminate on all sorts of tourist industry. By the way, they are helped by supernatural powers. The most famous of all attraction on the island is the so-called UFO-ring, an inexplicable impression in the field – probably made by a circular sailing vessel from another galaxy. I’ll order my masthead man to keep his eyes peeled.

Next day comes with dazzling rain. The morning is spent by chatting with sailors arrived the night before. An experienced, stout, old and ugly (but nice) man sails with his young, sexy (new) girlfriend. She is inexperienced, that is, I guess, with regard to sailing. Of cours the boat (i.e. his boat) is extremely large and I postulate a "law" regarding second marriage sailors: The tubbier the groom, the bigger the boat, the younger the bride. I ask my wife to cast off; we are heading for Meling bay at Bømlo’s western shore.

Nådesundet, Finnøy

Visitor berths in Nådesundet: Langøy, Reilstad (Eng.), Sea chart

Langøy belongs to Stavanger Sailing Club, but visiting yachts are welcome.

59.08,926 N 05.51,387 E. Nådesundet is situated on the island Finnøy’s southeastern shore. It is a beautiful sound with two nice guest harbours. One of them is at Langøy, south in the sound. This is where members of Stavanger sailing club have their summer cottage, but visiting yachts are welcome, albeit your stay will cost you a pretty penny per day. The Langøy quay offers water and electricity, toilet, shower and a barbecue place. Guest must register in the club's guest book and deposit the fee in an envelope. Small talk with other sailors, though, is free of charge.

59.08,886 N 05.50,710 E. Reilstad is just west of Langøy, on the Finnøy mainland. Again, it is a private guest pier, but reasonable. Also this spot offers water, electricity, toilet, shower  - and a playgrond not far away. The grosery, including a filling station, is close to the harbour. You are somewhat prone to eastern winds. If you like solitude and anchorage free of charge, you can also find sheltered bays along Nådesundet, especially towards Nådøy. Fogn, to the east, is another option. Otherwise, there is a guest marina north of Nådesundet, in Judaberg, the largest settlement in Finnøy.

Steinnesvågen / Vignesvågen

Steinnesvågen guest harbours (Eng.) (Eng.), Natural harbour, Sea chart

59.09,971' N 05.48,486'E. The wide Hesbyvågen lies northwest of Finnøy. At the head of this bay, you'll find a guest pier and some guest berths in the smaller Steinnesvågen. You can make fast vis-à-vis the grocery along the quay on the east side and also just nort of the quay. You are sheltered by the breakwater, but the bay is not among the most beautiful, due to somewhat untidy and industrial surroundings. Moreover, it will be unpleasant here in case of strong winds from the north.

Steinnesvågen, the quay/guest harbour.

59.10,050'N 05.47,490' E. A nicer alternative might be to cast anchor in one of the bays just to the west, just off Vignesvågen. Here you’ll find several small and beautiful bays where you will be safe, at least if it does not blow from the northeast. One of the bays also has a pier where you can make fast, at least if your draft is moderate. The pier is private, though, and you must ask permission at the nearest farm.

You'll find several nice coves to the west of Steinnesvågen. Ask permission if you make fast to a private pier.

View from Vignesvågen, early morning.

Vatsfjorden / Åmsosen

Guest harbour, hiking, angling, map

Vatsfjorden, early morning

Arendalssnekke in Vatsfjorden, a south coast type.

Hiking from Stokkadalen to Kjort

Uphill - the peak of Kjort is 606 m. above sea level

In the Norwegian fjords you can often climb mountains not far from the shore. One such place is Vatsfjorden. Here many hills and mountains are suitable for hiking. To reach Vats by boat, you must pass Nedstrand, steering north towards Sandeidfjorden. In the wide Krossfjorden, you enter Yrkjesfjorden to the west, finding Vatsfjorden as a branch stretching to the north. The fjord is small but beautiful; although there is an industrial aria near the mouth of the fjord. You can moor in Vats marina, where you can lie free of charge in three days (59. 29.677 N – 05.43.651 E). The marina has four berts for visiting boats. A nice trip is to the mountain Kjort to the east (sometimes written Tjort), 606 meters above sea level. The following is a description of how to get there. A good idea would be to take a taxi as far as possible, ca. 7 km from the guest harbour. Feel free to ask the locals about this and similar hikes.

If arriving by car on the main road (E-134): Leave the road at Knapphus and enter the highway-46 in the direction of Nedre Vats (Lower Vats). Follow the road 5 km (3,1 mi) to Kårhuskrysset where

you take to the right and drive 2.3 km (1,4 mi) down to Åmsosen (by the fjord). Just before you reach the quay at Hatteland, take to the left and then drive further on along the east side of the fjord, and then to the left, uphill towards Stokkadalen. After driving 6.3 km (3,9 mi) from Åmsosen, you reach a small fenced parking lot near Halvard Stokkedal’s farm. See the poster with information. From the parking lot, follow the road that runs between Halvard Stokkedal’s houses. From here you follow a forest road uphill through mixed forest, until Koltveitskaret. From here the trail is mark, and small signs give the name of the places you pass by. The hike is 4 km (2,5 mi) and estimated time is 1,5 hour. You can expect a magnificent sight. From the summit, on a clear day, you can overlook Stavanger (the Ullandhaug tower), Kvitsøy and the Ryfylke fjords, Haugalandet to the west and the brilliant Folgefonna (glacier) inn Hardanger to the north-east. On the summit a cairn is raised, and there is a book where mountaineers are free to put down their names and thoughts. Mountain boots are recommended.

Folgefonna in Hardanger, far off. 

The mouth of Vatsfjorden, and Yrkjesfjorden. View towards Stavanger. 

 On the summit at last - please writ your name and your impressions in the book.

5 hiking routes in Vats

 

This information is from Vatsnett (Norwegian). Info in English and German on Vindafjord-guide (pdf). Vats on page 8. Taxi in Ål/Nedre Vats: Tel: 32 08 15 24, cell phone: 909 04 933. More hiking-routs in Vats/Åm on Visitnorway.

Helgøysund / Sjernarøyane

Visitor pontoons, sea chart

Helgøysund guest harbour

59°13,64’N 05°50,32’E. Helgøysund on North Talje (Sjernarøyane) has a spacious and safe guest marina, although southern winds can cause some swell. New wave absorbers probably have reduced this problem. The guest harbour is free of charge, and has a well-equipped shop, fuel, a grillroom and a small Pizza bar. Electricity, water, toilets and showers are available. In Helgøysund the wonderful archipelago of Sjernarøyane surrounds you, and it is a pity if you just stay in the harbour. If you are tired of sailing, Talje has god hiking opportunities, try for instance a stroll to Rossmorkvågen where you may find the old marble quarry. You may also like to do some island hopping on your bike. A new bridge connects Talje with Tjul and the rest of the beautiful Sjernarøy islands (except Nord-Hidle). If you want to eat a tasty dinner, take a trip to Ramsvik guesthous on Kyrkjøy at Forasundet (booking in advance may be necessary). The guesthouse also has good art exhibitions during the summer season. Kyrkjøy was the birthplace of the Norwegian author Alfred Hauge (1915-1986), known for his novels about the Norwegian emigration to America, and the Norwegian emigrant Cleng Peerson.

Avaldsnes / Haugesund

Natural harbour, Norse history, St. Olav's church, Karmøy info, sea chart

A German sailer in Karmsundet.

59°21,08’N 05°18,22’E. Avaldsnes. North of Boknafjorden lies Karmøy. If you choose to go west of the island, you can visit the impressive and charming island community of Utsira, Norway's smallest municipality. If you prefer to sail in sheltered waters, you can enjoy the outstretched Karmsundet, a pleasure at least when sailing free. If your mast rises less then 12 meters, you can enter Karmsundet from the narrow Røyksundet, 59°20’N.

Røyksund.

If you are keen on history and Norse culture, a stop at Avaldsnes is mandatory. King Harold Fair Hair made Avaldsnes his main residence after 870 AD, and due to this, the place is called Norway's oldest throne. Today you can visit a Viking farm, built on Bukkøy and a Viking festival is held each year in June. Just by Bukkøy you'll find both the new Nordvegen History Centre and St. Olav's Church, built by King Haakon Hakonson around 1250. The church is known for the Virgin Mary's sewing needle. Doomsday will be upon us when the top of this standing stone touches the church wall.

From the Viking farm.

Karmsundet and Nordvegen History Centre.

St. Olav's Church

Virgin Mary and her sewing needle.

Maritornes resting at Bukkøy.

Unfortunately, one forgot to arrange for more modern sailors at Avaldsnes. The quay at the Viking farm is for use only by appointment, and there is no other decent jetty. Nevertheless, it is possible to make fast to the rocks on both sides of Bukkøy. The northern bay has a small floating jetty, but it looks like a private one. Ask at the farm, if you are staying long.

59°24,58’N 05°16,17’E. Haugesund. Visitor quay

Haugesund. The guest harbour is north of the bridge.

Ship chandlers - Haugesund.

From Avaldsnes it is not far to Haugesund, the main centre of Haugalandet with approximately 34.000 inhabitants. The town is known for both the Norwegian Film Festival in August and a popular jazz festival previous to this – Sildajazz, when 1000 yachts and boats crowd together in the harbour. Haugesund's devlopment was based on the rich herring fisheries in the 1900th century, and the town was later transformed into a shipbuilding centre. The town is still known for it’s rich maritime culture, and has a nice (but often crowded) guests harbour, situated in Smedasundet, just at the heart of the town. Haugesund is a god place to bunker, to do some shopping, eating out – or buying odds and ends to your old boat. Along the quay, the ship chandlers are lined up, one after the other. Filling up is easiest at the marina in the sound between Risøya and Hasseløya.

The Iclandic sagawriter Snorre points out Haugesund to be the place where the norwegian Viking King, Harald Hårfagre was buried. This King is considered to be the one uniting the nation, and just north of the town, you can visit Norway's National Unity Monoment, Haraldshaugen. The charming island-archipelago Røvær lies west of Haugesund, and is strongly recommended. Take your own boat - or a ferry (20 min.). Farther out in the ocean, you'll find Utsira, Norway's smallest municipality with approximately 215 inhabitants. Also recommended, at least in fair weather. The town Kopervik (No.) with 38.000 inhabitants is farther south in Karmsundet, while the fishing village Åkrehamn is situated west on Karmøy. See also beautiful Skudeneshavn, south on Karmøy.

North of Haugesund you’ll meet an open stretch – Sletta – known for it’s heavy sea. In fine weather, though, you can visit nice bays along this coast. After crossing Sletta you can go north to the old, beautiful fishing village Espevær and further along the barren western shore of Bømlo. Both Bømlo and Fitjar are recommended. Or you can enter Bømlafjorden to the northeast, towards the Hardanger fjord.

Sletta, Ryvarden lighthouse (No). The lighthouse is now a cultural centre with art gallery and cafe, and offers overnight accommodation, see Sveio tourist information.

More spots on "Waters": "Haugalandet". In Karmsundet, see also: Kopervik, Visitor berths (Eng.)

Gardsvågen, Sør-Talje

Natural harbour, quay, shop, sea chart

Summer in Gardsvågen.

59°05,83’N 05°50,46’E. From this bay - Gardsvågen - you can follow great hiking trails along the (south) Talje coastline (see map). You can make fast alongside the quay although the quay is in a miserable shape, you may also swing at anchor or make fast to the rocks north-east in the bay. A visit to the old church is recommended, or you you may prefer to spend an hour or two, exploring the Gard gartneri, a huge marked garden with all kind of flowers (www.gardgartneri.no) . Eldarvågen has traces from the past, see map. The bay is to some extent exposed to winds from the south.

The bay has changed considerable since I last visited the island. A huge breakwater is built, and the local shop (see map) is closes. All this is due to modern times and the new tunnel, offering connection to Finnøy and the main land.

The quay

The rocks to the north-east are suitable for mooring.

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Gard gartneri - recommended.

The new breakwater. Hopefully there will be some visitors berths too. 

From my last visit, spring 2013.

Gardsvågen 1951.

 

The quay: Not the warmest welcome to Sør-Talje.



Toftøyvågen

Natural harbour , sea chart

Toftøyvågen

59°16,15’N 05°39,99’E. If you have crossed Nedstrandsfjorden or Boknafjorden from the south or are coming from the north through Karmsundet, the Toftøyvågen bay is a great place to rest. This bay has easy approach from the southwest or south, but mind the cable crossing the bay (19 m). The tiny island Børøya provides shelter, so there is fairly calm even in southern winds. An old small pier is set up at the head of the bay, but you also can moor to the rocks or swing at anchor. Along the shore you will find old boat-landings and a boathouse ruin. On the east side of the bay, south on Toftøy, an impressive stone staircase leads from the bay towards the hill where you'll find a farm and beautiful cultivated land (Show consideration, you are on private land).